Dr Demented's Handbook "It's Back.." The Book for the Beginer Anarchist! Revised and Edited 5/13/96 Disclaimer ---------- All information contained in this document are for educational/entertainment purposes Only. Dr Demented his flamily gaurdians heirs, etc disclaimes ALL responsibilities for your [the reader's] actions and if you don't agree to these terms destroy this document NOW !!! A word from Dr Demented ----------------------- Velcome to Version II of Dr Demented's Handbook I am trying a new format this time, it's a One-Really-big-phile as opposed to an 001.doc style system. This has lotsa junk including box plans and a Chemical equvilency list...It is still not as big as it could be, but I would rather leak this info in lots of files then put it all out at once...well I hope you like this stuff...Anyways let me just say that I have not personally tested [all] these yet. You must see which one to try and which ones to leave alone. Basically this if fun stuff for the beginer to intermidiate Hacker/Phreaker/Anarchist Advanced terrorists should read Version I where It details things like tailing, advanced boxes, survalence techniques, REALLY dangerous bombs, etc.. -Dr Demented '96 --- A PAINFUL PRANK --- /==:==:==:==:==:==:==:==:==\ ! Urine Box Plans ! ... new and improved! ... \==:==:==:==:==:==:==:==:==/ Now at last, Underground_Elite brings you these ultrasophisticated box plans for, well, uh, I guess we just kind of bring them for you. After many months of keeping this puppy secret, we here at Underground_Elite have inally come to the consensus that the public oughtn't be kept in the dark from the wrath of Ma Bell, that great telephone company in the sky. The Urine Box (tm) basically creates a capacitative disturbance between the ring and tip wires in another's telephone headset. I have utilized this to the distinct advantage of the operator of the Urine box and to the disadvantage of the other party involved, hopefully you won't get caught. Without further a doo, wire this schematic together. Copper wire (or gold) will work best due to its lessened resistance. It might be a good idea to keep the wiring cooled, to further reduce current loss. 47k ohms --------------- .01 uF !\ !------/\/\/-----------! SPSTswitch !----!-----)!------! ! \ ! --------------- ! ! ! !--! ! (+)! ! !----------<-!----!---------/\/\/------------! ---------- ! / PVP diode! 470k ohms ! 12 VDC ! !/ ! _ ---------- ! / .005 uF (-)! SPKR 20W !------/\/\/\/\/---------)!---<-!--------! ! _/ VR1 (see note1) PVP diode ! ! ! to RING to TIP (your phone) (your phone) note1 - VR1 is a three position variable resistor, enabling settingsequivalent to 100k ohms, 210k ohms, and 320k ohms (all 110k apart). Page 36 note2 - The diodes are silicon-germanium based bipolar RF reducers to limit current polarity reversal. If these are placed backwards the box will not work as intended. note3 - The speaker will emit low tones when the SPST is closed (ie the box is "ON") and when the settings of VR1 are moved to higher resistance the tone level will increase. note4 - Place setting evaluation symbols to represet the lowest resistance setting for VR1 to be "STEAM", the second (210) to be "MELT", the third (320) to be "VAPORIZE". Usage of box. Use in place of your normal telephone receiver. Do not attempt usage as a regular phone. Call victim by sending tones through speaker with tape recorded noise. Use touch tone sounds as pulse requires electric disruption of line, not just audio. After answer (listen in on SPKR 1) set VR1 to desired strength and let her go. Victim will feel unpleasant sensations in his/her head and will undergo a series of high intensity seizures, not unlike epilepsy, and jointly proportional to VR-1 setting and time induced. Settings. (The Fun Part) STEAM. A short -poof- of water vapor condenses within the victim's earpiece, rendering the telephone short circuited and the victim quite dazed. MELT. Causes structural phase change of receiver (usually reinforced urea-formal-dehyde plastic material - high tech). As in urine?// \\Some kinda water shit I guess. This has the unpleasant bonus of removing the victim's hand. VAPORIZE. If the victim is particularly nasty, this setting will remove his upper anatomy (if box is enabled properly, that is!). Continued usage of this setting is generally not recommended, as death or other serious injury will accompany. Disclaimer. Yes, I will refuse to take responsibility for your incompetence in electrical doings. This includes my reluctance to give court testimony, etc. etc. Wolfgang von Albatross Attorney at Law, ex Telco employee. %+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+ %HOW TO BUILD A BLOTO BOX+ THE DEATH DEVICE! %+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+ Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool the inncoent phreakers around America has finally been concieved by the one phreak who is the expert on lines and voltage: The Traveler. Other boxes by the Traveler include the White Gold Box, the Aqua Box, The Diverti Box, and the Cold Box. All of those plans will soon be available in a BBS/AE near you! Well, for you people who are unenlightened about the Blotto Box, here is a brief summery of a legend. --*-=> The Blotto Box <=-*-- For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that the function of it actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage Master, it is possible. Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame, the Blotto Box is finally available to the public. NOTE: The Traveler can not be responcable for the information disclosed in the file! This file is strictly for informational purposes and should not be actually built and used! Usage of this electronical impulse machine could have the severe results listed below and could result in high federal prosecution! Again, The Traveler TAKES NO RESPONCABILITY! <--Need an English tutor? All right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of the box and it's function. The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on it's knees with this device. Because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone lines everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area code, and no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for that matter. As long as the switchhing system stays the same, this box will not stop at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical impulses that emit from this box will open every line. Every line will ring and ring and ring... the voltage will never be cut off until the box/ generator is stopped. This is no 200 volt job, here. We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to ring, and people close to the box may be electricuted if they pick up the phone. But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or generator. If they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take a while for the box to calm back down again, but that is merely a superficial aftereffect. Once again: Construction and use of this box is not advised! The Blotto Box will continue as long as there is electricity to continue with. OK, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting things for you to do with it... --*-=> The Blotto Box Functions and Installation <=-*-- Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The following are the instructions for construction and use of this box. Please head and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt to construct this box. Materials: - A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a stadium or some such place. - A radio shack cord set for 400 volts that splices a female plug into a phone line jack. - A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself. - A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that you see around in your neighborhood. They are the main switch boards and would be a more effective line to start with. or: A regular phone jack (not your own, and not in your area code! - A soudering iron and much souder. - A remote control or long wooden pole. Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes, I will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator and all of the other listed equiptment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make sure it is one on the ground or hanging at head level from a pole, not the huge ones at the top of telephone poles. Open it up with anything convienent, if you are two feeble that fuck don't try this. Take a look inside... you are hunting for color-coordinating lines of green and red. Now, take out your radio shack cord and rip the meter thing off. Replace it with the voltage eter about. A good level to set the voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage meter to the cord and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the other end of the cord into the generator. Take the phone jack and splice the jack part off. Open it up and match the red and green wires with the other red and green wires. NOTE: If you just had the generator on and have done this in the correct order, you will be a crispy critter. Keep the generator off until you plan to start it up. Now, sauder those lines together carefully. Wrap duck tape or insultation tape around all of the wires. Now, place the remote control right on to the startup of the generator. If you have the long pole, make sure it is very long and stand back as far away as you can get and reach the pole over. NOTICE: If you are going right along with this without reading the file first, you sill realizd0now tHat your area code is about to become null! Then, getting back, twitch the pole/remote control and run for your damn life. Anywhere, just get away from it. It will be generating so much electricity that if you stand to close you will kill yourself. The generator will smoke, etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your area code, because all of that energy is spreading through all of the phone lines around you in every direction. Have a nice day! --*-=> The Blotto Box: Aftermath <=-*-- Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and ultimately deadly box ever created. My hat goes off to: King Blotto (for the original idea), Captain Xerox (for the suggestion about stadiums), and Modern s}}x (for the fact I was on his BBS when I thought of it. THE BEIGE BOX---------------------------A LINEMAN'S HANDSET FREE CALLS!!!! ------------ INTRODUCTION ------------ Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching unlocked phone company trucks for one for months, we had an idea. We could build one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box," simply because that is the color of ours. In the following file we will give complete instructions for the construction and use of a Beige Box. ------------ CONSTRUCTION ------------ The construction is very simple. First, you must understand the concept of the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green, yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter: the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and black are not necessary for this project. A lineman's handset only has two clips on it: the ring and the tip. You will need a phone (we reccommend a touch-tone) with a modular plug, a modular jack, and two large alligator clips (preferably red and green, respectively). Take the modular jack and look at the bottom of its casing. There should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow, and black) leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red alligator clip. To the end of the green wire attach a green alligator clip. The yellow and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular model is nice because it can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight, and does not require the destruction of a phone. Page 41 ----- --- ---- BEIGE BOX USES ----- --- ---- There are many uses for the Beige Box. However, before you can use it, you must know how to attach it to its output device. This device can be any of several Bell switching apparatus that include terminal sets (i.e., remote switching centers, bridging heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver. This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store. With your 7/16 hex driver, turn the security bolt(s) approximately 1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked, then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks. However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to terminals. On most of your output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T" (Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if not labeled, it is usually on the right). Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to remember which is which. Now you must attach the red alligator clip (ring) to the "R" (ring) terminal. Attach the green alliagtor clip (tip) to the "T" (tip) terminal. NOTE: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, re-adjust the alligator clips so that they are not touching each other or other terminals. Also make sure that they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone. Dial ANI and find out the number that you are using (you wouldn't want to use your own). Here are some practical applications: o Eavesdropping o Long distance, static-free phone calls to phriends o Dialing direct to Alliance Conferencing (also static-free) o Phucking people over o Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself o Blue Boxing with a greatly reduced chance of getting caught o Anything at all that you want, since you are an extension on that line Page 42 Eavesdropping: ------------- To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box and then your phone. This eliminates static caused by connecting the box, therefore reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping, it is always best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number. Dialing Long Distance: ------- ---- -------- This section is self-explanatory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before the NPA. Dialing Direct to Alliance Conferencing: ------- ------ -- -------- ------------ Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there. I prefer this method over PBXs, since PBXs often have poor reception and are more difficult to come by. Phucking People Over: -------- ------ ---- This is a very large topic for discussion. Just by using the other functions described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will not have to pay it, but it is a hassle for them). In addition, since you are an extension of the person's line, leave your phone off hook, and they will not be able to make or recieve calls. This can be extremely nasty because no one would suspect the cause of the problem. Bothering the Operator: --------- --- -------- This is also self-explanatory and can provide hours of entertainment. Simply ask or say things to her that are offensive and you would not like traced to your line. This also Page 43 corresponds with the previous described section, Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to? He he he... Blue Boxing: ---- ------ See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice feature if you live in an ESS-equipped prefix, since the calls are, once again, not traced to your line. {{{As well as no true Blue Boxing being necessary. The call is charged to someone else, no tones needed.}}} --------- ----- -- ----- ------ POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING --------- ----- -- ----- ------ Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicions within the Gestapo, and result in legal problems. Therefore, I would recommend that you: o Use more than one output device o Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing o Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real name on a public BBS concerning your accomplishments) o In order to make sure that the enemy has not been inside your ouput device, I reccomend that you place a piece of transparent tape over the opening of your output device. Therefore, if it is opened in your absence, the tape will be displaced and you will be aware of the fact that someone has been intruding upon your territory. /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ /-/ /-/ /-/ The Aqua Box /-/ /-/ /-/ ANTI-LOCK IN /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ /-/ /-/ TRACE /-/ Concept by: Captain Xerox /-/ /-/ /-/ /-/ Plans by: The Traveler /-/ /-/ /-/ /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreaded F.B.I. 'Lock in Trace.' For a long time, it was impossible to escape from the lock in trace. This box does offer and escape route with simple directions to it. This box is quite a simple concept, and almost any phreaker with basic electronics knowledge can construct and use it. /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ /-/ The Lock /-/ /-/ in Trace /-/ /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ A lock in trace is a device used by the F.B.I. to lock into the phone users location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress. For those of you who are not familiar with the concept of 'locking in', then here's a brief description. The F.B.I. can tap into a conversation, sort of like a three-way call connection. Then, when they get there, they can plug electricity into the phone line. All phone connections are held open by a certain voltage of electricity, that is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when you are calling far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same voltage straight into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage is retained. Your phone will ring just like someone was calling you even after you hang up. (If you have call waiting, you should understand better about that, for call waiting intercepts the electricity and makes a tone that means someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter of which voltage is higher. When you push down the receiver, then it see-saws the electricity to the other side. When you have a person on each line it is impossible to hang up unless one or both of them will hang up. If you try to hang up, voltage is retained, and your phone will ring. That should give you an understanding of how calling works, also. When Page 45 electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the electricity causes a bell to ring or on some newer phones an electronic ring to sound.) So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every time someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does decrease a little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting about a hundred phones all hooked into the same line that could all be taken off the hook at the same time. That would greatly decrease the voltage level. That is also why most three-way connections that are using the bell service three way calling which is only $3 a month) become quite faint after a while. By now, you should understand the basic idea. You have to drain all of the power out of the line so the voltage can not be kept up. I suddenly thought draining of power could quickly short out the F.B.I. voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain the exact voltage necessary to keep the voltage out. For now, imagine this. One of the normal Radio Shack generators that you can go pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into the central box has a phone jack on it and the other has an electrical plug. This way, you can "flash" voltage THROUGH the line, but cannot drain it. So, some modifications have to be done. /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ /-/ The Aqua Box /-/ /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ Materials needed- a BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp type connection, where you just have a simple plug and wire that would plug into a light bulb. - One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your own... same voltage connection, but the restrainer must be built in (i.e. the central box) - TWO phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are being traced to plug the aqua box into) - Some creativity and easy work. NOTICE: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so don't go out and buy a new phone for it! All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could drain into anything, a radio, or whatever. The purpose of having that is you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into the electrical applicence so there would be no voltage left to lock you in with. 1)Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have only two prongs, if it has three, still, do not fear. Page 46 MAKE SURE THE ELECTRICAL APPLIANCE IS TURNED OFF unless you wanna become a crispy critter while making this thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the top of them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside. Well, get a nice one and remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...) then just cut the top off. When you look inside, low and behold, you will see that at the base of the prongs there are a few wires connecting in. Those wires conduct the power into the appliance. So, you carefully unwrap those from the sides and pull them out until they are about and inch ahead of the prongs. If you don't wanna keep the jack, then just rip the prongs out. If you are, cover the prongs with insultation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the power is being dvained from the line. 2)Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the wires evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires around each other. If you happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the phone, stop reading now, your too fucking stupid to continue. After you've wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the whole thing with the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box or if you bought one, then cram all the wires into the box and reclose it. That box is your ticket out of this. 3)Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty flimsy connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at it then you can sauder{Solder, my friend} away at it and form the whole device into one big box, with some kind of cheap mattel hand-held game inside to be the power connector. In order to use it, just keep this box handy. Plug it into the jack if you want, but it will slightly lower the voltage so it isn't connected. When you plug it in, if you see sparks, unplug it and restart the WHOLE thing. But if it just seems fine then leave it. Page 47 /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ /-/ Using it !! /-/ /-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/ Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... DO NOT USE THIS UNLESS THE SITUATION IS DESPERATE! When the trace has gone on, don't panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked to. It will need energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source... the voltage to keep a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light bulb should drain it all in and probably short the F.B.I. computer at the same time. Happy boxing and stay free! $$$$$$$$$$-=>Making Your Phone<=-$$$$$$ PAY PHONE $$$$$$$$$$-=>Into a Cheesebox <=-$$$$$$ /=\Typed by:Sir Knight/=\ A Cheesebox (named for the type of box the first one was found in) is a type of box which will, in effect, make your telephone a Pay-Phone.....This is a simple,modernized, and easy way of doing it.... Inside Info: These were first used by bookies many years ago as a way of making calls to people without being called by the cops or having their numbers traced and/or tapped...... How To Make A Modern Cheese Box Ingredients: ------------ 1 Call Forwarding service on the line 1 Set of Red Box Tones The number to your prefix's Intercept operator(do some scanning for this one) How To: ------- After you find the number to the intercept operator in your prefix, use your call-forwarding and forward all calls to her...this will make your phone stay off the hook(actually, now it waits for a quarter to be dropped in)...you now have a cheese box... In Order To Call Out On This Line:You must use your Red Box tones and generate the quarter dropping in...then,you can make phone calls to people...as far as I know, this is fairly safe, and they do not check much...Although I am not sure, I think you can even make credit-card calls from a cheesebox phone and not get traced... Enjoy, and don't get Caught! =><= Sir Knight =><= Head of APPA /-/-/-/-/-/-\-\-\-\-\-\ THREE WAY CALLING <:-\-Brown Box Plans-/-:> \-\-\-\-\-\-/-/-/-/-/-/ (>Introduction<) This is a fairly simple modification that can be made to any phone. All it does is allow you to take any 2 lines in your house and create a party line. So far I have not heard of any problems with it from my friends that have set one up and I have not had any either. There is one thing that you will notice when you are one of the two people who is called by a person with this box. The other person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this with some amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these boxes made. I think that the convenience of having two people on line at any one time will make up for the minor volume loss. (>Phone Modification Instructions<) Here is the diagram: KEY:___________________________________ ! PART ! SYMBOL ! ----------------------------------- !BLACK WIRE ! * ! !YELLOW WIRE ! = ! !RED WIRE ! + ! !GREEN WIRE ! - ! !SPDT SWITCH ! _/_ ! ! _/_ ! !VERTICAL WIRE ! ! ! !HORIZONTAL WIRE ! _ ! ----------------------------------- Page 51 * = - + * = - + * = - + * = - + * = - + * ==_/_- + *******_/_++++++ ! ! ! ! ! ! !_____PHONE____! --------------------------------------- In some houses the black and yellow are already wired in others you will have to go out to your box and rewire it. A good way to figure out which line is which is to take the phone you are looking for off the hook. Then you only need to take the red and green wires entering your phone and hook them to the different pairs of red and green going into the house. You can't hurt anything in the phone or telephone by probeing. When you find the pair that you want take the black from your line and attach it to the red of the other line then take the yellow and attach it to the green line. Now you are all set to go. For people with rotary phones you can have one person call you then place the second call out to the other person. Though not a phreakers tool, the brown box can be phun. ___________________________-END-____________________________ o Written by The Doc & Edited by 13th Floor Enterprises 619-420-8678 MAKE YOURSELF A RELAY LINE (Blueboxing with no risk) GOLD BOX PLANS: COURTESY OF SIR WILLIAM HOW TO BUILD IT _______________ YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING: TWO 10K OHM AND THREE 1.4K OHM RESISTORS, TWO 2N3904 TRANSISTORS, TWO PHOTOCELLS, TWO RED LED'S (THE MORE LIGHT PRODUCED THE BETTER), A BOX THAT WILL NOT LET LIGHT IN, AND RED AND GREEN WIRE. LIGHT FROM THE #1 LED MUST SHING DIRECTLY ON THE PHOTOCELL #1. THE GOLD BOX I MAID NEEDED THE TOP OF THE LED'S TO TOUCH THE PHOTOCELL FOR IT TO WORK. THE SAME APPLIES TO THE #2 PHOTOCELL AND LED 1 :-PHOTOCELL--: : : : :BASE : 1 TTTTT : +LED- TRANSISTOR : TTTTT : : : : -I(-- : :COLLECTOR RED1--< >:--: :-------:-----GREEN2 -I(-- : ----------: : : 2 :-/+/+/-/+/+/-/+/+/-/+/+/ LED 10K 10K 1.4K 1.4K RESISTORES 2 -PHOTOCELL----------------- : : :BASE : TTTTT : TRANSISTOR : TTTTT : : :EMITTER : GREEN1- --------------------------RED2 : : /+/+/ 1.4K Page 53 THE 1.4K RESISTOR IS VERIABLE AND IF THE SECCOND PART OF THE GOLD BOX IS SKIPPED IT WILL STILL WORK BUT WHEN SOMEONE PICKS THE PHONE UP THEY WILL HEAR A FAINT DIAL TONE IN THE BACKGROUND AND MIGHT REPORT IT TO THE GESTOPO ER...(AT&T). 1.4K WILL GIVE YOU GOOD RECEPTION WITH LITTLE RISK OF A GESTOPO AGENT AT YOUR DOOR. NOW THAT YOU HAVE BUILT IT TAKE TWO GREEN WIRES OF THE SAME LENTH STRIP THE ENDS, TWIST TWO ENDS TOGETHER AND CONNECT THEM TO GREEN1 AND PLACE A PEICE OF TAPE ON IT WITH LINE #1 WRITING ON IT. CONTINUE THE PROCESS WITH RED1 ONLY USE RED WIRE. REPEAT WITH RED2 AND GREEN2 BUT CHANGE TO LINE #2. HOW TO INSTALL ______________ YOU WILL NEED TO FIND TWO PHONE LINES THAT ARE CLOSE TOGETHER. LABEL ONE OF THE PHONES LINES LINE #1.CUT THE PHONE LINES AND TAKE THE OUTER COUTING OFF IT. THERE SHOULD BE 4 WIRES CUT THE YELLOW AND BLACK WIRES OFF AND STRIP THE RED AND GREEN WIRES FOR BOTH LINES. LINE #1 SHOULD BE IN TWO PEICES TAKE THE GREEN WIRE OF ONE END AND CONNECT IT TO THE ONE OF THE GREEN WIRES ON THE GOLD BOX. TAKE THE OTHER HALF OF LINE #1 AND HOOK THE FREE GREEN WIRE TO THE GREEN WIRE ON THE PHONE LINE. REPEAT THE PROCESS WITH RED1 AND THE OTHER LINE. ALL YOU NEED TO DO NOW IS TO RIGHT DOWN THE PHONE NUMBERS OF THE PLACE YOU HOOKED IT UP AT AND GO HOME AND CALL IT. YOU SHOULD GET A DIAL TONE!!! IF NOT LEAVE ME A MESSAGE ON THE MODEM MADNESS BBS 516-569-0589 OR TRY CHANGING THE EMITTER WITH COLLECTOR. OH AND HOOKING IT UP TO A PAYPHONE IS A FEDERAL OFFENCE AND IS ILLEAGAL TO PUT ON ANY PHONE. I RECOMMEND YOU SEE YOUR LOCAL POLICE DEPARTMENT BEFORE DOING ANYTHING SAID IN THIS ARTICLE. (HAHAHAHA!!!!!!) U/l'ed to: Static Barrier BBS by Sandman Call These KEWL BBS!! T H E O A S I S [312] 724 - 0346 : H O T E L C A . [312] 234 - 6237 (*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*) (*) Crimson Box (*) HOW TO MAKE A HOLD BUTTON FOR (*) Plans (*) YOUR PHONE (*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*) The Crimson Box is very simple device that will allow you to put someone on hold or make your fone busy with a large amount of ease. You flip a switch and the person can't hear you talking. Flip it back and everything is peechy. (*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*) (*) Needed Materials (*) (*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*) [ (1) 100 ohm or less resistor (1) SPDT toggle switch, On-On (3) feet of good wire Wire cutters Solder and soldering iron (*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*) (*) Construction & Schemtaic (*) (*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*) First I will give you the schematic and then I will explain what the hell is going on. [-----------black wire on line----- --------+ red wire on line +--- ______________________ --------)--+/\/\/-green wire---)--- / : . . : . /\ --------)--! yellow wire-------)--- / -)- <--wire is under/:/ ! ! ! / : \_Wire is over(-)/:/ +--!------+ ! | . : . wire . |\/ +----+ ! +----------+ |____________________|| ! ! ! \____________________\ 1 2 3 Ok. The '/\/\/' is the resistor. And '1 2 3' is the switch where the numbers are the poles on the switch. Notice you leave the black and yellow wires alone. You DO NOT cut them! [ Strip the red and green wires so you've got about an inch of bare wire. Solder some of the extra wire and follow the schematic. You should have the resistor on the green wire with an extra piece of wire coming from one leg of it. The other leg goes to the other end of the green wire. You should solder the green wire to the left pole of the switch and the red to the middle and the other end of the red to the right pole. Now, lift up the phone. If all you get is an annoying buzz then throw the [switch and you should get a dial tone. If not, don't worry and just follow the instructions and schematic again. _______________________________________ This has been an HMH presentaion-1985 Crimson Box - Written and created by: Dr. D-Code Watch for the upcoming Sand Box _______________________________________ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$ $$ $$ ***************** $$ $$ * How to make a * $$ $$ ***************** $$ $$ $$ $$ <> Pearl Box <> $$ $$ $$ $$ Written and created by: Dr. D-Code $$ $$ $$ $$ (Sysops may use this information if it's not altered in ) $$ $$ (any way at all) $$ $$ $$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ The Pearl Box: Definition - This is a box that may substitute for many boxes which produce tones in hertz. The Pearl Box when operated correctly can produce tones from 1-9999hz. As you can see, 2600, 1633, 1336 and other crucial tones are obviously in its sound spectrum. Materials you will need in order to build The Pearl Box: ======================================================== C1, C2::::::::.5mf or .5uf ceramic disk capacitors Q1::::::::::::NPN transistor (2N2222 works best) S1::::::::::::Normally open momentary SPST switch S2::::::::::::SPST toggle switch B1::::::::::::Standard 9-Volt battery R1::::::::::::Single turn, 50k potentiometer R2:::::::::::: " " 100k potentiometer R3:::::::::::: " " 500k potentiometer R4:::::::::::: " " 1meg potentiometer SPKR::::::::::Standard 8-ohm speaker T1::::::::::::Mini transformer (8-ohm works best) Misc.:::::::::Wire, solder, soldering iron, PC board or perfboard, box to contain the completed unit, battery clip Instructions for building The Pearl Box: ======================================== Since the instruction are EXTREMELY difficult to explain in Page 57 words, you will be given a schematic instead. It will be quite difficult to follow but try it any way. There is also a Hi-Res picture you can get that shows the schematic in great detail. (Schematic for The Pearl Box) {It's not really that diffucult to understand. Try it} +-------------+------------+---------+ ! ! \ +--S1---- C1 C2 \ SPKR ! ! + +-------- + + ----+T1 + !\ +---------------+------+ ! b c-------! ! Q1 ! ! e-----S2---+ ! ! ! ! ! B1 ! ! ! ! ! +-------+ !R1 R2 R3 R4! /\/\ /\/\ /\/\ /\/\ +--+ +--+ +--+ Now that you are probably thoroughly confused, let me explain a few minor details. The potentiometer area is rigged so that the left pole is connected to the center pole of the potentiometer next to it. The middle terminal of T1 is connected to the piece of wire that runs down to the end of the battery. Correct operation of The Pearl Box: =================================== You may want to get some dry-transfer decals at Radio Shack to make this job a lot easier. Also, some knobs for the tops of the potentiometers may be useful too. Use the decals to calibrate the knobs. R1 is the knob for the ones place, R2 is for the tens place, R3 if for the hundreds place and R4 is for the thousands place. S1 is for producing the all the tones and S2 is for power. Step 1: Turn on the power and adjust the knobs for the desired tone. (Example: For 2600 hz- R1=0:R2=0:R3=6:R4=2) Step 2: Hit the pushbutton switch and VWALA! You have the tone. If you don't have a tone recheck all connections and schematic. If you still don't have a tone call Brainstorm BBS:612-345-2815, The Bay:415-775-2384 or Pirate's Harbor:617-720-3600 and leave me e-mail stating what the scene is. --------------------------------------------------------------- This has been a High Mountain Hackers presentation - 1985 --------------------------------------------------------------- Shakepeare is currently working on an improved version of the Pearl Box.. look for the ppplans soon! Page 58 MAKE SILVER BOX TONES [+>Read: silver boxing =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Ingredients: 1 Blue wire about 1 foot. 1 Gray wire about 1 foot. 1 Brown wire about 1 foot. (Better to overkill....) 1 Single pole/Double throw (SPDT) switch. (Smallest you can find.) 1 Standard bell phone. Tools: 1 Soldering Iron and Solder. 1 flat-tip screwdriver. 1 Very patcient person. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- 1: Take the casing off your phone by loosening the two screws underneath it. (Don't take the screws all the way off!) 2: Loosen (But don't remove) the screws on the side of the touch tone keypad. (The ones that attach it to the mounting bracket.) and CAREFULLY remove the keypad from the mounting bracket. 3: You will notice a plastic cover on the keypad; seperate the two halves and get the out of your way. (Don't destroy them, you will need them later.) 4: Now, look at the top of the pad (so the 123 row is facing away, and the *0# row is toward you. Turn over the keypad. You should see a mass of wires, gold plated contacts, discrete components, and two large doughnut shaped black thingies. (These are the coils that make the touch-tone frequencies. All you are going to do is connect the wires that Ma Bell "Forgot" to.) 5: Look at the coil on the left (with 5 solder contacts facing you, rather than being perpendicular to you.) Count over 4 contacts FROM the left (or 2 conacts FROM the right) and solder the GRAY wire to the fourth post FROM the left. 6: Solder the other end of the GRAY wire to the LEFT pole of the SPDT switch. 7: (The point of no return).......... Take a look at the bottom edge of the keypad. You should see a row of three gold plated contacts (to the right of two very large capasitors) look at the one on the left and GENTELY seperate the two touching connectors (They are soldered together with a drop of solder) and spread them apart. Page 59 8: Solder the brown wire to the top contact (The one futhest from you), and solder it to the RIGHT pole of SPDT switch. 9: Now, take the blue wire and solder it to the bottom (Closest)contact. Solder the other end of this wire to the CENTER pole of SPDT switch. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* DONE *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* 10: Now put you phone back together. (To make it look professonal, make a hole in the plastic top of your phone and stick the SPDT switch through it. Now, (Hopefully) when the switch is in on position you will have a normal phone and when it is in the other position the 3, 6, 9, and # keys (Which are now the A, B, C, and D keys) will magically produce the SILVER BOX TONES! Have Phun and Happy Phreaking, The Devil -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- ==================================== USING A SILVER BOX ----------------------------------- First off, a silver box adds the four extra tones to your phone that Ma Bell never told you about. They go like this: 1 2 3 A 4 5 6 B 7 8 9 C * 0 # D There used to be many places were you could use SILVER BOX tones, but now you can only use it in places were Ma Bell hasn't Page 60 gotten around to replacing her old switchboxes, (4A), or on Autovan. Autovan is a special military phone line, like a mass of private lines hooked together (I think, but I'm not sure). To see if a specific area has the old 4A switchboxes try this test: Call up there directory assistance byusing XXX-555-1212, (Where XXX is the area code you are check out. Now hold down the "D" key as soon as you finish dialing. (If you are using the SILVER BOX that I showed you how to make; Switch to SILVER BOX tones and hold down the "#" key.) The phone should start ringing and the operator will answer. If the operator screams at you to stop pressing your keypad, then hang up and try a diffrent areacode. (This one does not work.) If you get a pulsing tone the you got a good line! Now try out different numbers. 6 and 7 usually form a loop line and two people with SILVER BOXES can talk. But some of these are watched, so DON'T say anything you wouldn't want your mother to hear! I have heard the 213 works but is being watched. Try out of the way states like Iowa, Monatana, Wyoming, ect...(etc) Have Phun, The Devil ==================================== You better know HOW TO BUILD AND USE A RED BOX...... what THIS is! =->= == ---------------------- THE RED BOX BASICALLY SIMULATES THE SOUND OF COINS BEING DROPPED INTO THE COIN SLOT OF A PAY TELEPHONE. A PAY TELEPHONE GENERATES A BURST OF TWO MIXED FREQUENCIES, 1700 HZ AND 2200 HZ, FOR A SPECIFIC TIME INTERVAL TO DENOTE A NICKLR, DIME, OR QUARTER. A NICKLE IS 1700 HZ +2200 HZ FOR 66 MILLISECONDS. A DIME IS 1700 HZ + 2200 HZ FOR 66 MILLI. SECS. ON, 66 MS. OFF , THEN 66 MS ON AGAIN. FINALLY, A QUARTER IS 1700 HZ+2200 HZ FOR 33,MS ON, 33 MS, OFF, CONTINUOSLY REPEATING FOR 5 TIMES. WHEN USING A RED BOX ON A PAY PHONE, FIRST DEPOSIT A REAL NICKLE (BECAUSE THEY CAN TELL IF THE FIRST ONE IS A REAL ONE OR JUST A TONE), THEN USE THE TONE BURST. YOU CAN BUILD THE CIRCUIT TO GENERATE A NICKLE TONE, THEN RECORD IT AND PLAY IT INTO THE PAY PHONE WITH A WALKMAN CASETTE PLAYER. TO GET THE MAP, SEND $2 DOLLARS TO MASTER WORLD 1609 S. BENTLEY AVE LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90025 THE MAP HAS MANY FIGURES THAT THE COMPUTER CANNOT PRODUCE. IF YOU HAVE THE MAP , HERE ARE SOME TIPS: ADJUST R1 TO GET 2200 HZ AT POINT A ADJUST R2 " " 1700 HZ " " B PRESS SWITCH FOR 66 MS ON AT SPEAKER THIS SIMULATES A NICKLE THE 555 TIMER-> 66MS TIMER THE 556 DUAL TIMER->2200HZ+1700HZ GENERATOR 741->TIMER OP AMP BUFFER FOR SPEAKER SO REMEMBER IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE MAP SEND TWO DOLLARS TO THE ADDRESS UP ABOVE {{{ My Hertz Generator will make most tones necessary for RED Boxing, so try it first before you go and spend your money.}}} {{{Tell me how you like it....}}} {{{ The generator, that is. }}} :%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%: :% %: :% THE GREEN BOX %: :% %: :%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%: The Green Box generates useful tonessuch as COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, and RINGBACK. These are the tones that ACTS or the TSPS operator would send to the CO when appropriate. Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at a fortress station, but must be used by the CALLED party. The tones (hz) are: COIN COLLECT 700 + 1100 COIN RETURN 1100 + 1700 RINGBACK 700 + 1700 Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator released signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the CO. This can be done by sending 900 + 1500 Hz or a single 2600 Hz wink (90 ms) followed by a 60 ms gap and then the appropriate signal for at least 900 ms. Also, do not forget that the initial rate is collected shortly before the 3 minute period is up. .................................. : Getting keys to soda : : machines : :................................: By The Pyro This worked for a friend of mine at school (I would) never do anything like this) it got him over $900 in one day. Here's how to do it: On almost all vending machines they have those damn round almost unpickable locks on them so: When no one is looking quickly press a piece of AIR-HARDENING clay into the lock. (Press hard enough to get a good impression.) Remove the clay carefully and let it dry for however long the clay has to dry as specified on the package. You now have a key to fit that lock, (this Type of 'key' can be easily crushed If you're seen. But if you're smart you won't though) \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ Gun Powder By The Mortician Sysop of The Morgue (xxx)xxx-xxxx Well the ingredients are: Potassium Nitrate 85% Carbon(Charcol) 12% Sulfur 3% They are rough percentages but try a little like that and play with it. The more Potassium you add the faster it iwll burn. Less sulfur slower. Less carbon the less it will burn. What you will do is just put them all in a mixing jar, I used a little cardboard box with low sides and then ground it up and mix together. You can get Potassium Nitrate at most drug stores. It is commonly known as Salt Peter. Have fun. Excerpts from 'Steal This Book' by Abbie Hoffman. (I doubt the Publishers will mind too much seeing as how most people got this book by stealing it, as is suggested by the title.... I doubt they expected a profit from it; if they did, they were wrong.) Anyway, here it is: =====>> People's Chemistry -------- --------- Stink Bomb You can purchase buteric acid at any chemical supply store for "laboratory experiments." It can be thrown or poured directly in an area you think already stinks. A small bottle can be left uncapped behind a door that opens into the target room. When a person enters they will knock over the bottle, spilling the liquid. Called a "Fronies," by those in the know, an ounce of buteric acid can go a long way. Be careful not to get it on your clothing. A home-made stink bomb can be made by mixing a batch of egg whites, Drano, (sodium hydroxide) and water. Let the mixture sit for a few days in a capped bottle before using. Smoke Bomb Sometimes it becomes strategically correct to confuse the opposition and provide a smoke screen to aid an escape. A real home-made smoke bomb can be made by combining four parts sugar to six parts saltpeter (available at all chemical supply stores). This mixture must then be heated over a very low flame. It willl blend into a plastic substance. When this starts to gel, remove from the heat and allow the plastic to cool. Embed a few wooden match heads into the mass while it's still pliable and attach a fuse.* ...About a pound of the plastic will produce thick enough smoke to fill a city block. Just make sure you know which way the wind is blowing. (* is under Fuses, Page 156) Page 154 Sterno Bomb One of the simplest bombs to make is the converted sterno can. It will provide some bang and a widely dispersed spray of jellied fire. Remove the lid from a standard, commercially purchased can and punch a hold {Hole I assume} in the center big enough for the firecracker fuse. Take a large spoonful of jelly out of the center to make room for the firecracker. Insert the firecracker and pull the fuse up through the hole in the lid. When in place, cement around the hole with epoxy glue. Put some more glue around the rim of the can and reseal the lid. Wipe the can and wash off excess with rubbing alcohol. A cancerette fuse {cigarette fuse} should be used. The can could also be taped around a bottle with Moltov mixture and ignited. Various fuses from 'Steal This Book' Fuses You can make a good homemade fuse by dipping a string in glue and then rolling it lightly in gunpowder. When the glue hardens, wrap the string tightly and neatly with scotch tape. This fuse can be used in a variety of ways. Weight it on one end and drop a rock into the tank of a pig vehicle. Light the other end and run like hell. {Cops don't like that part though....} Cancerette Fuse {Cigarette Fuse} Take a few puffs (being sure not to inhale the vile fumes){This comming from an acclaimed pot-grower} to get it going and work the unlighted end over the fuse of a firecracker. {Use an unfiltered cigarette, or cut off the filter} This will provide a delay of from 5 to 15 minutes. To use this type of fuse successfully, there must be enough air in the vicinity so the flame won't go out. A strong wind would not be good either. When the cancerette burns down, it sets off the firecracker which in turn explodes and ignites the bomb or whatever. A little free money never hurt.... Coin Fraud Every time you drop a coin into a slot, you are losing money needlessly. There is at least one foreign coin that is the same size or close enough that will do the trick for less than a penny. The following are some of the foreign currencies that will get you that Coke, call or subway ride. Quarter Size Coins URUGUAYAN 10 CENTISIMO PIECE--works in many soda and candy machines, older telephones (3 slot types), toll machines, laundromats, parking meters, stamp machines and restroom novelty machines{You figure that one out}. Works also in some electric cancerette machines but not most mechanical machines. DANISH 5 ORE PIECE--works in 3 slot telephones, toll machines, laundromats, automats, some stamp machines, and the Boston Subway. Doesn't work in soda or cancerette machines. PERUVIAN 20 CENTAVO PIECE--similar to above. MEXICAN 10 CENTAVO PIECE--works in new (one slot) telephones and some electric cancerette machines, but not in as many places as the three above. ICELANDIC 5 AURAN PIECE--most effective quarter in the world, even works in change machines. Unfortunately, this coin is practically impossible to get outside of Iceland and even there, it is becoming difficult since the government is attempting to remove it from circulation. {DAMN!} Dime Size Coins MALASIAN PENNY--generally works in all dime slots, including old and new telephones, candy machines, soda machines, electric machines, stamp machines, parking meters, photocopy machines, and pay toilets. Does not work in some newer stamp dispensers, and some mechanical cancerette machines. TRINIDAD PENNY--works much like above. Washers No. 14 brass washer with tape on one side makes a PERFECT dime. When you get the ones you want, you can get Thousands for next to nothing and pass them out to your friends. Legalities etc All of the coins listed have a currency value of a few cents, with most less than one penny. Foreign coins work more regularly than slugs and are non-magnetic, hence cannot be detected by "slug detector machines." Also unlike slugs, although they are illegal to use in mahines, they a re perfectly legal to possess and exchange. Bills Xerox copies of both sides of a dollar bill, carefully glued together, work in most machines that give you change for a dollar....Fancy that! It's the Treasury Department. Wonder what they want? Free Calls You can make all the free long distance calls you want by calling your part collect at a pay phone. Just have your friend go to a prearranged phone booth at a prearranged time. This can be done on the spot by having the friend call you person to person. Say you're not in, but ask for the number calling you since you'll be "back" in five minutes. Once you get the number simply hang up, wait a moment and call back your friend collect. The call has to be out of state to work since operators are familiar with the special extension numbers assigned to pay phones for her area and possibly for nearby areas as well. if she asks you if it is a pay phone say no. If she finds out during the call (which rarely happens) and informs you of this, simply say you didn't expect the party to have a pay phone in their house and accept the charges. We never heard of this happening though. Simple Red Boxing If there are two pay phones next to each other, you can call long distance on one and put the coins in the other. When the operator cuts in and asks you to deposit money, drop the coins in the one you are not using, but hold the reciever up to the slots so the operator can hear the bells ring. When you've finished, you can simply press the return button on the phone with the coins, and you'll get them back. (Or tape record the sounds etc) {For this, nowadays, put the reciver up to the earpiece on the other phone and procede as above stated.} %%:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::%% %% Coin Changer Fraud %% %% Written by- Electronic Rebel %% %%:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::%% Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports, laundrymats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you. 1) Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then slide they tray in!!! 2) After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly surface. 3) Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure). 4) If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is: when you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine. When it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up getting your bill back, plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of money! !--------------------------------! ! ! ! (1) /-------\ (1) ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Pic. ! ! ! (1) /\ \-------/ (1) ! ! !! ! !-----/ \-----------------------! \-------Make notch here. About 1/2 " down from (1) Electronic Terrorism By: King Tut It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a (direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile inwardly---your revenge is already planned. Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more, letting your anger boil. Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit(details below.) Step 3: plant your kit at the desig- nated target site on a monday morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of an effective note: "don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your hand. Have a nice day." Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a homicidal psychopath. Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions. Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are: 1) 4 aa batteries 2) 1 9-volt battery 3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack) 4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80) 5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store) 6) 1 9-volt battery connector Page 108 step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed postion thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a look at the schematic below.) Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession. Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another, until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar ignitor quickly and effectively. Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open position on the relay. Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker, mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80). Page 109 Your kit is now complete! ---------><--------- I (CONTACTS) I I I I --- (9 VOLT) I - (BATTERY) I --- I I I (COIL) I ------///////------- /----------- / I / I / I (SWITCH) I I I I I I I I I --- (BATTERY) I - ( PACK ) I --- I I I I ---- ----- I I * (SOLAR IGNITOR) How to Hotwire a Car By: The Marauder The easiest way is to just get under the dashboard and start crossing wires. Of course this could short out the entire electrical system so there is a better way. When you get in the car, look under the dash. If it's enclosed then don't bother. Most new cars are like this unfortunately. However you could cut through the dash. If you do cut just do it near the ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition, look for two red wires. In older cars this was the standard color code. If they aren't there you'll just have to try whatever else you can find. Pull out the two wires and cross them. The car should start. ' Green Goddess ' ----------------- Materials --------- 1.) Zinc (Zn) <---NOTE: This is not the same as Znc Oxide! 2.) Sulfur (S) Procedure --------- 1.) Mix the two together 1/2 and 1/2. 2.) MAKE SURE that you mix them very well. The best way to do so, is to put the mixture in a jar with a lid and shake it up for 15-60 seconds, until it is all a grayish color. 3.) To ignite, use magnesium and a blow torch (*matches don't work). WARNING,this burns very very quickly, and produces smoke. Also it burns at a fairly high temperature(*about 600 deg. fah.). It will surprise you when it ignites. There will be a delay, and then all of a sudden, it will flash up, and is capable of burning the hell out of you. Homemade Bombs (Just the way Mom used to make 'em) Explosive Devices An anarchist's beginning guide to explosives! (or how to get back at those neighbors who told you to turn your stereo down by blowing em up!) 1.Quickie... Take organic pool chlorine and mix it with vegetable shortening and put it someplace you don't like. It reacts by itself to produce a very noxious white smoke and heat. *make sure you are not around because the fumes are harmful to your health. 2.A pipe bomb (dangerous) Take a pipe, crimp (closed at one end) and pack it 3/4 full of paraffin (or any other semi-solid with about the same basic chemical structure), poke a number of holes through the length of the paraffin. On top of this put a very thin steel (or other metal of that sort) wafer, make double damn sure** that it fits tightly all the way around. On top of this put some high concentration HCL (or similar acid). Close the top now, stand it on end (paraffin end down), and get the fuck away. You should have about 2-5 minutes depending on the thickness of the wafer. Watch out for shrapnel. *sure you will..more like 5-30 seconds. better to use a vial on the bottom ,stand the pipe upright, tie a string around it and pull from far away. 3. Snowball... Take ammonium iodide, flour, & water and form this into a snowball. Leave this 'snowball' somewhere where it will do neat stuff when it dries out. (substituting some magnesium flash powder for some (not all) of that flour helps things a bit.) 4.Fire bomb.. Take carbon disulfide and dissolve white phosphorous in it. Put it in a stoppered bottle and throw it at something you would like to see on fire. When the CS2 evaporates, it leaves a film of P on what ever it hits, and it starts a fire with the solvent vapors. 5. Light bulb bomb (click...booom!) Take a light bulb (brass based preferably so you can solder the wires back when you are done) Unsolder the two wires that are soldered to the brass (one at the center of the base and one on the edge). Remove the base, taking care not to damage the bulb or filament, then take a pair of needle nosed pliers and snap the glass nipple that is now exposed. Fill bulb (not completely),via the hole you just made, with gasoline. Plug hole with silicone or something. Put the base back on, resolder the wires, screw into light fixture (with power off of course!), turn on light...booom! *easier to use a mini-power-drill. Fire Bombs, Napalm etc. By: Lex Luthor FIREBOMBS Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on. Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have been found whcih were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline. NAPALM About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistancy, like jam and is best for use on vehilces or buildings. How to make Napalm by the Jolly Roger - Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container. - Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup. - Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused stuff lasts a long time! MATCH HEAD BOMB Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a devestating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse A plastic Baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent detonation by contact with the metal. Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from the TV. FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury. It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the contents. WHAT!?!? How to Make Nitroglycerin By: Karl Marx CH2ONO2 ! 3/2 N2 + 3 CO2 CHONO2 ----------> + ! Ignition 5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2 CH2ONO2 (How Nitro explodes--note that the byproducts are nothing but nitrogen, carbon dioxide, water and oxygen) Nitroglycerin [heretofore Nitro] is a very powerful high- explosive. I am not sure who invented it but he probably didn't-- the first person to make it probably blew himself up and his freind got the info off his notes. Well anyway, the next best thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to make but also ten times safer to make. If you can't use common sense then dont even TRY to make this stuff--a few drops can be lethal under certain circumstances. To make Nitro: == ==== ====== Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulphuric acid. This is going to be HOT at first--it won't splatter if you pour the nitric INTO the sulphuric but don't try it the other way around. The acid solutions together can disolve flesh in a matter of seconds so take the proper measures for God's sake!!! When cool, add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down the sides of the container into the acids or it won't mix thourily and the reaction could go to fast--which causes enough heat to ignite the stuff. Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then CARFULLY pour it into 20 times it's *VOLUME* of water. It will visibly precipitate immediatly. there will be twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin and it is easy to separate. Mix it with baking soda as soon as you have separated it-- this helps it not to go off spontainously. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: NOTES: Parts are by weight and the Baume' scale of spicific gravity can be found in most chem. books. You ca get fuming nitric and sulfuric acids wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold. It is positivly *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time. When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made the stuff I had the honor of having it go off by itself (I added too much glycerine at a time.) I was across the room at the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table it was on as well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by only 25 grams in an open bowl. Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and you need an adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with that, if it gets old I wouldn't play catch with it. Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb. you can make a really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by simply mixing it with as much cotton as you can and then saturating that with molten ((parifine--just enough to make it sealed and hard. Typically, use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton and parifine. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once known as "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite," but that was back in 1896. I Zoxxon take no responsibility for the use of these items stated herewithin. This textfile is presented for informational use only. The comments are added to most of the things i have attempted. All of the origional authors names have been deleted for privacy. All telephone numbers have been deleted also in order to preserve secrecy. Some articles are from the ill-fated, "THE POLICE STATION" BBS Generic bomb 1) Aquire a glass container 2) Put in a few drops of gasoline 3) Cap the top 4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates 5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this stuff from a snake bite kit) 6) The bomb is detonated by throwing aganist a solid object. *AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS ABOUT 1/2 STICK OF DYNAMITE* House Hold equivalants ----- ---- ----------- Name Equivalant ---- ---------- acetic acid vinegar aluminum oxide alumia aluminum potassium sulfate alum aluminum sulfate alum ammonium hydroxide ammonia carbon carbonate chalk carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid calcium hypochloride bleaching powder calcium oxide lime calcium sulfate plaster of paris carbonic acid seltzer ethylene dichloride dutch fluid ferric oxide iron rust glucose corn syrup graphite pencil lead hydrochloric acid muriatic acid hydrogen peroxide peroxide lead acetate sugar of lead lead tetrooxide red lead magesium silicate talc magesium sulfate Epsom salts naphthalene mothballs phenol carbolic acid potassium bicarbonate cream of tarter potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum potassium nitrate saltpeter sodium dioxide sand sodium bicarbonate baking soda sodium borate borax sodium carbonate washing soda sodium choride salt sodium hydroxide lye sodium silicate water glass Page 64 sodium sulfate glaubers' salt sodium thiosulfate photographers hypo sulferic acid battery acid sucrose cane sugar zinc choride tinner's fluid ------------ -------------- $%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$ % % $ Kitchen Improvised Plastic Explosives $ % % $ PART I $ % How to make plastique from bleach. % $ $ % % $%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$ Typed $%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$ in by Agrajag the Prolonged This is the first in a serries of articles dealing with the process of making platic explosives. In the articles I will discuss different types of plastic explosives, there origin and finally hold to produce them with suplies that are found in a usual house-hold. This information was orignally written by Tim Lewis, and was typed in and uploaded by myself, (Agrajag). This article will take you through step by step process of making plastic explosive from common house-hold bleach. Plastique Explosive from Bleach This explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition were used in WWI as the main ecplosive filler in grenades, land mines, and morter rounds used by French, German, and some other forces involved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to manufcture. By RELATIVELY SAFE, I mean just that! DON'T SCREW AROUND WITH THIS SHIT, EITHER MAKE IT OR DON'T! I hate to hear of a phreak buying it because he was fucking with some chemicals and then it blew up in his face. The procedures in the following paragraph CAN BE DANGEROUS, if you don't take special care, and watch what you are doing! On should strive to make sure these explosives are free from sulfure, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while in storage. One should never store home made explosives, make enough for what you need at the time. YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS UNTIL IT BLOWS! The manufacter of this explosive from bleach is given just as an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the "Dissociation" reaction to take place. The procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach, (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution), obtain a heat source, hot-plate, stove, etc., etc. a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container, (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride, (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach and place it in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boil until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if battery hydrometer is used, it should read FULL charge.) When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees celcius. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milileters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals the form upon cooling. This process of purification is called fractional crystalization. these crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Power these to the consistancy of face powder and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Disslove this in white gasoline, (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate, (the powdered crystals from above), in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phophorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax till water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Live long and prosper, Agrajag Ps, I would like to thank Tim Lewis, the autor of "Kitchen Improvised Plastic Explosives" for this information. You may obtain a catalog of other books of this and other natures by writing: Information Publishing Co. Box 10042, Odessa, Texas. 79762 PrimoPyro1990 .... Detonators .... DISCLAIMER: The following file contains information of harmful or illegal nature. Neither the BBS or author providing this information can be considered responsible for the use of this file. The person using this knowledge is solely responsible for it's use or misuse. This file is intended to educate only. Modern high explosives require a shock to explode. The detonator provides this shock. Detonators are powerful enough to take off your fingers completely and shatter your hand so care must be used in the making and handling of them. The standard nonelectric detonator consists of a brass tube about 1/4" I.D. with thin walls and a length of about 2 1/2" to 3". This tube is sealed at one end and open at the other. The tube contains two explosives, one layer upon the other. The bottom layer is called the base charge and is usually an insensitive high explosive. The top layer is the initiating charge and is a sensitive explosive. At one time the usual blasting cap contained 2 gms. of mercury fulminate and was called a #8 cap. A #6 cap contained 1 gm. of fulminate. Other caps with less strength were numbered lower. Since fulminate is a sensitive explosive, detonators with less of it were safer to handle. To use this type of detonator, a fuse is inserted into the tube and pushed against the fulminate. The tube is then crimped around a blasting fuse with a special tool for this purpose. An electric detonator consists of the same detonator as above but now an electric match is inserted in place of the fuse and sealed in with a water- proof seal. The wires for the detonator are twisted together or somehow shorted together to keep stray radio signals from causing premature deton- ation. If the wires are not twisted together, one lead may act as an antenna while the other acts as a ground. If the wires intercept a radio signal, the induced current may be enough to heat up the detonator's filament and cause an explosion. Old detonators were made with a spark gap instead of a filament and were set off when a high voltage spark jumped the gap. This type of det- onator can be set off by static electricity generated by walking across a carpet. Another type of detonator is the exploding brigewire detonator. This uses no primary explosive such as fulminate. Instead, a small diameter wire is used in place of a filament. A capacitor is charged up to say 300 v. and 200 uFD. The capacitor is then discharged through the detonator causing the bridge- wire to explode. This microexplosion is enough to cause the initiaton of the secondary explosive. If a battery is connected to the detonator, the bridge- wire burns through without detonating the explosive. These detonators are very safe to handle and use but the firing circuit is complex. Still another type of detonator is a percussion detonator. This is a mechan- ically initiated device. It consists of a nonelectric detonator with a primer sealed in one end. When a firing pin hits the primer the resulting flash fires the detonator. Sometimes a stab detonator is used. This is very much like the percussion detonator but instead of the firing pin, a needle is used to pierce the sensitive end of the cap. The most modern detonators include a built in electronic timer that causes detonation at some precise time after the detonation pulse is received. This delay is programmable and is used to tailor the explosion to suit individual needs. The explosive is also configured as a small shaped charge to cause a more perfect detonation of the main charge. Primary Explosives Used in Detonators Primary explosives are chemicals that do not burn but explode directly from a flame or spark. They are also usually very sensitive to shock. Mercury fulminate can be found in toy paper caps for use in a cap pistol. The quantity in a paper cap is about 1/10 of a grain. There are 15.4 grains in a gram so approximately 154 of them contain one gram. If you have heard one cap exploding, imagine 154 of them going at once. The following are manufacturing processes for small laboratory amounts of primary explosives. Follow safety rules if you decide to manufacture them. Mercury Fulminate: This is one of the oldest explosives used for making deto- nators. It is one of the easiest explosives to make. In a glass container put 40 ml. of 90% nitric acid. If you have red fuming nitric acid, put in 10 ml. of water then add 30 ml. of acid one drop at a time until all the acid is added. Water should never be added to acid. The reaction can cause splattering of the acid. Acid to water is what you oughta. Water to acid is not very placid. Now, add 5 gms. of mercury metal. As the metal dissolves in the acid, some red fumes of nitric oxides may be released. Avoid breathing them. Allow the mixture to stand until the mercury is dissolved. You may want to stir the acid to help the mercury dissolve. The mercury may take some time to dissolve so have patience. When the metal is dissolved, add the acid to 75 ml. of warm 90% ethyl alcohol.in a 500 ml. glass container. In a few minutes a reaction will start. The mixture will start bubbling and frothing so the reaction must take place in a large container. White fumes will start coming out of the reaction and must not be inhaled. The white fumes will give way to red fumes then change back to white again. A precipitate will be seen to form in the liquid. This is mercury fulminate. When the reaction stops bubbling, pour the liquid into about 12 oz. of water. Wash the precipitate out of the reaction container and into the water. Filter the fulminate out of the water and wash it with a few ounces of ethyl alcohol and a final wash of a few ounces of distilled water. The fulminate should be a grayish to a white powder. It is best stored under water until use. Mercury fulminate can be exploded by a 4 cm. drop of a 1 kilo weight. It will become "dead pressed" if subjected to pressures of 25,000 - 30,000 psi and will no longer explode but just burn. DDNP: Diazodinitrophenol is a greenish yellow to a brown crystal and is superior to fulminate as a detonating agent. To make it, dissolve 1 gm. of sodium hydroxide in 65 mls. of distilled water then add 6 gms of picric acid to the lye solution. In another container put 10 ml. of distilled water and add 5 gms. of sulfur to the water. Now add 5 gms. of sodium hydoxide to the sulfur/water. Boil this mixture until it turns bright red. Let the solution cool off. Add the sulfur/lye to picric acid solution in four portions letting the picric solution cool down in between additions. Stir the solution while adding the sulfur/lye. Let the mixture cool off then filter out the red particles. Dissolve the red particles in 130 mls. of boiling water. Filter the solution and discard any precipitate, save the solution. Add 80% sulfuric acid to the solution drop by drop until it turns an orange- brown color then add 15 mls. more sulfuric acid. Let the solution cool down to room temperature. Dissolve 3.75 gms of sodium nitrite (not nitrate) in 150 mls. of distilled water. Add the nitrite solution to the orange-brown solu- tion all at once while stirring. Let the solution stand for 10 - 15 mins. The solution should be a brown color. Filter out the particles of DDNP and wash them with 100 mls. of distilled ice water. Store the DDNP under a small amount of water until use. Lead Picrate: When picric acid reacts with a metal a picrate is formed. The heavier the metal the more sensitive an explosive is formed. Lead picrate is a useful explosive for making improvised detonators. The picrate will explode from heat, sparks, or shock. In a small glass container put 5 gms. of picric acid. Add to this 25 mls. of ethyl alcohol and stir the two to make a paste. Add 5 gms. of lead monoxide to the paste and gently stir the mixture. This is now an explosive. Store the paste still wet with alcohol in a sealed glass container until needed. Lead Azide: Lead azide is probably the most commonly used explosive in modern detonators. It is not as shock sensitive as mercury fulminate. It must be precipitated in the presence of dextrin to keep the particles of azide small. Failure to do this will result in an explosion as the large crystals of azide explode from inner stresses. Dissolve 17 gms. of lead nitrate and 1.5 gms. of dextrin in 250 ml. of distilled water. Adjust the pH of the solution to 5.4 with sodium hydroxide then heat the water to 70 deg. C. While stirring the solution strongly add a solution of 6.5 gms. of sodium azide and 1.5 gms of sodium hydroxide in 250 mls. of distilled water. Continue stirring for 5 min. Filter out the lead azide and wash with about 500 mls. of distilled water. Store the lead azide under water until needed. Secondary Explosives Used in Detonators These explosives are relatively insensitive and are used to strengthen the explosion of the detonator. These explosives are classified as a high explosive. Picric Acid: This process was taught by the CIA for their improvised explo- sives course. It produces an explosive from aspirin. Crush 20, 5 grain aspirin tablets and add 1 tsp. of water to it to make a paste. Stir in 1/2 cup of ethyl alcohol to the aspirin paste and then filter the solution to remove any solid particles. Evaporate the alcohol and recover the crystals that are left. Pour 1/3 cup of concentrated sulfuric acid into a large jar and add the crystals from the alcohol solution. Heat the acid in a simmering hot water bath for 15 mins. The acid should turn a reddish color. Now add 15 gms. of potassium nitrate to the acid 5 gms. at a time while stirring. Let the acid cool to room temperature then pour the acid slowly into 1 1/2 cups of water and let it cool down again. Filter off the particles of picric acid and wash them with 1 cup of ice water. Dry these crystals before using them. Picric acid is a very strong dye. Contact with it will stain just about anything. Picric acid also reacts with metal to form picrate salts that are a hazard. Any metal in contact with picric acid should be coated with an acid proof paint or an epoxy coat. Guncotton: This is not very commonly used especially for detonators but for improvised work it is perfect. Make an acid mixture composed of 3 parts by volume concentrated nitric acid and 1 part concentrated sulfuric acid. Take a small piece of cotton and quickly push it under the acid with a glass rod. Leave it under the acid for 5 mins. then pull out the cotton and squeeze out the excess acid. Quickly push it under water to wash out any acid rem- aining in the cotton. Now wash the cotton in fresh water containing a few percent of sodium bicarbonate. Pull the cotton apart to help the water get to all the fibers. Now wash the cotton in warm water for 15 mins. If you want to remove all the acid trapped in the fibers, expose the cotton to strong sunlight for one or two days then wash it in a 3% sodium bicarbonate solution for 1/2 hour followed by a wash with distilled water. If all this washing sounds redundant it isn't. The acid gets trapped inside the fibers of the cotton and causes the explosive to deteriorate after a while. Guncotton is very spark sensitive and should be stored wet with water until used. Cyclonite: Also known as cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine or simply RDX, this is one of the most powerful explosives known. It is not too sensitive but as with all explosives handle with care and common sense. RDX is produced by nitrating hexamethylenetetramine (HMT). HMT is used to make fuel sticks for use in small survival or camping stoves. It can be made by treating an ammonia solution with formaldehyde and evaporating the liquid to obtain the HMT. If you have problems getting formaldehyde, check out a boating supply or paint store for resorcinal glue. It is a two part glue, one part which is paraformaldehyde. This is a powder and is simply a polymer of formaldehyde which you can use. Cool 60 gms of 100% nitric acid to 0 deg. C. and add 5 gms. of HMT to the acid in several small portions while not letting the temperature go above 30 deg. C. When all the HMT is added, let the acid cool down to 0 deg. C. then let it stand for 20 mins. At that time, dump the acid into two pints of cold water. The RDX will precipitate and should be filtered out and then washed with water until it is free of acid. The RDX can be stored dry in a cool place until needed. Making a Detonator Obtain a small brass tube with a 1/4" I.D. and seal one end with an epoxy plug. The length of the tube should be about 3". Weigh out 1 gm. of one of the secondary explosives and press it into the bottom of the tube .25 gm. at a time. Do not subject the explosive to shock but press it in the tube with a wooden dowel to avoid all sparks. Press a small paper disk down onto the explosive. Weigh out .75 gm. of a primary explosive and press this into the tube .25 gm. at a time. If you are using an electric ignitor, insert it into the tube up against the primary explosive and seal the ignitor into the tube with a little epoxy. These detonators are much more powerful than the standard commercial or military detonator and should be able to detonate any explosive you are using. An electric ignitor for a detonator can be made as follows. Take a small (3/8" long) section of tube that you are using for the detonator and coat the inside with silicone or wax. Put the tube onto a piece of wax- paper. Fold a length of 27 ga. solid wire into a hairpin loop and hold the loop in the tube up against the waxpaper. Put a few drops of 5 min. epoxy in the tube and let it harden. Now fill up the rest of the tube with the epoxy. Peel the waxpaper away from the tube and push the epoxy plug out of the tube. Take a file and file the end of the plug until the wire diameter at the loop is reduced to 1/4 the original diameter. Mix a small amount of black powder with dextrin and water to make a paste then coat the wire loop. When 6 - 12 volts are connected to the wire leads the black powder will flash. This can be sealed into a detonator if you want to make it an electric detonator. You can take a shotgun primer and make up a brass collar to hold it tightly in a detonator tube. A little bit of epoxy will seal it into the end of the detonator if you want to make a percussion initiated detonator. Be careful when making, storing, and using detonators. Too many accidents have been attributed to the careless handling of them. *** Kilroy was here *** PrimoPyro1990 .... Electrical Delays .... DISCLAIMER: The following file contains information of harmful or illegal nature. Neither the BBS or author providing this information can be considered responsible for the use of this file. The person using this knowledge is solely responsible for it's use or misuse. This file is intended to educate only. This file is companion to 2 GIF files. These files are schematics for electr- onic delay circuits. To produce delays in the ignition or detonation of pyrotechnic devices, chemical, electrical, and mechanical devices can be used. In the chemical family there are various ways to cause a delay. The foremost is probably sulfuric acid and a chlorate. The chlorate is mixed with a combus- tible substance and a rubber balloon filled with sulfuric acid is placed in the chlorate mixture. Depending on the thickness of the balloon and the ambient temperature, the acid will eat through the balloon in anywhere from 5 mins. to 3 hrs. When the acid contacts the chlorate mix, the mix will catch fire. There are other reactions such as silver nitrate/magnesium and water, potassium permanganate and glycerin, and sodium peroxide/sawdust and water. Mechanical delays are usually a clockwork device that releases a spring powered firing pin to detonate a primer. The clockwork can also be used to close an electrical circuit to set off a detonator. In the electrical family there are many ways to make a delayed ignitor. One way which is an electrochemical reaction is to make a delayed battery. This device uses a dry battery consisting of alternate pieces of zinc and copper sheet metal. This is a battery which only needs an electrolyte to cause a current to flow. If you use sulfuric acid as the electrolyte, you can arrange a barrier to keep the acid from the battery. When the acid eats through the barrier and wets the battery a current will flow which can be used to set off a detonator. Each cell (one set of copper/zinc) will produce about 1.5 v. You will have to make sure that there is enough surface area in each cell to provide enough current (amperage) to trigger the detonator. Any number of cells can be wired in parallel to produce enough amps. The problem with this delayed battery is it is temperature sensitive. The acid will eat through the barrier faster on a hot day than on a cold day. A long delay device can be made from a simple relay and a few batteries. Wire up a relay to a battery to hold the normally closed contacts open. A second set of batteries is then wired to these contacts to supply current for a detonator. Since the first set of batteries are holding the contacts open, no current flows through the detonator. As soon as the first set of batteries loose enough power, the contacts will close and the firing circuit will be complete, firing the detonator. An optional resistor can be used to limit the current to the relay thus lengthening the delay a bit. Enough current must be supplied however to operate the relay. This delay will be found to be sensi- tive to shock and vibration as the contacts can be closed prematurely if the relay case is tapped too hard. Insert a safety switch in the detonator side of the circuit to be thrown after the power to the relay is applied. Fig. 1 This is an electronic delay that can be tailor made for delays from a few seconds to a couple of hours. It consists of a 555 IC Timer wired in an astable mode to provide clock pulses to a CMOS 4017 Decade Counter/Divider. A 555 can be made to provide delays of about 20 mins. after that the sizes of the timing capacitor and resistor gets a little large. The 4017 will count these pulses and can be used to lengthen the delay. Parts list ------------ R1 --- this is actually a multi-pole switch wired with a number of different resistors so you can dial in the delay you want R2 --- 1K ohm 5% R3 --- 440 ohm 5% C1 --- Timing capacitor - Pick a capacitor to suit the delay you want. Typical values are 100 ufd. to 200 ufd. C2 --- .001 ufd. Q1 --- 2N222 npn - If your load needs more power wire a power transistor as a darlington pair. IC1 --- 555 IC timer - A CMOS type is available if you want to cut the power requirements. IC2 --- 4017 CMOS Decade Counter SW1 --- SPDT switch Breadboard this circuit to understand how it works. That way you can plug in different values for the timing circuit to give you the range of delays you may want. To use the timer, make sure sw1 is holding pin 15 of IC2 to Vcc. This makes sure the counter is reset. Apply power to the timer then throw sw1 to put pin 15 at ground potential. Depending on the delay you want, take the delay off pins 1 - 12 of IC2. The schematic shows pin 11 as being used. When you have adjusted the timer components to give you the delay range you want, layout a pc board and mount the components to suit. Fig. 2 A new programmable timer chip has been released. This chip uses less power and parts than the 555/4017 device. The chip can be found in Radio Shack for about $3.00. It is a LS7210 programmable digital delay timer. By varying a resistor/capacitor combination you alter an internal oscillator and set a fundamental delay period or LSB. Then by putting any combination of 5 pins low, you can choose the delay to be LSB, LSB+2, LSB+1, LSB+3, or MSB. With LSB at 1 min. the timer can be made to give delays of 1, 2, 4, 8, or 16 mins. By seting pin 8 (16) and pin 11 (2) low, the timer will give a delay of 18 mins. Parts List ----------- IC1 --- LS7210 digital timer R1 --- 4.7K Current limiting resistor R2 --- Timing resistor - Choose value for appropriate delay C1 --- Timing capacitor - "" "" SW1 --- SPDT switch - Trigger SW2 --- DIP switch - 5 place microswitch to set time delay Q1 --- 2N222 npn transistor Assemble the circuit on a universal breadboard to get a feel for the circuit and to help set the fundemantal delay. You can use 1% metal film resistors and a trimming resistor to obtain an accurate delay. Remember to use the same power source in the tests as you plan to use in practise as the timer is sensitive to voltage changes. You can obtain an LSB of one hour by using a 47 mfd. capacitor and a resistance of about 70.7 Kohms. If you desire to pre- set the delay, use a hard wired connection instead of the microswitch. SW1 the trigger, is set to the positive position, the power is then applied, and sw1 is thrown to the negative to start the timer. An idea to use if you want the timer to self-destruct. Wire the delay point to point without using any sort of pcboard or any other type of board. Use solid wire to lend the delay some support. Then in a suitable container, put an appropriate amount of PBX. This is Plastic Bonded Explosive. It is made by mixing 85% PETN and 15% Polystyrene plastic. The mixture is wet down with acetone to blend the ingredients properly. While the explosive is still wet, insert the delay into the PBX and let it harden. Use the detonator from the delay to set off the PBX which in turn can set off your main charge. The PBX will vaporize most of the delay. *** Kilroy was here *** How To Treat A Chemical Burn The following question and answer might be of value to some of your users DEAR SIR. I WORK FOR ONE THE THE LARGE ELECTRONICS COMPANY'S HERE IN THE VALLEY. I WORK AROUND VERY HAZARDIS CHEMICALS SOME KNOWN TO ME AS E-6, HF. I ALSO WORK AROUND RF. EVERY DAY WHILE IN WORK MY EYES WATER, BURN, I HAVE TO BLINK VERY OFTEN TO KEEP MY EYES FROM FALLING OUT. PEOPLE AROUND ME ASK WHY I BLINK AND SWINT SO MUCH. I ONLY DO THIS AT WORK DURING MY 8 HR SHIFT. COULD THIS HAVE TO DO WITH THE WORK AREA. ALSO I WORK UNDER YELLOW LIGHTS ALL DAY AT WORK ALSO. =========================================================================== Various chemicals have, from time to time, been implicated in causing irritation of the eyes. Solvent fumes such as E-6 and etchants such as HF are known cuses of this problem. The fumes of HydroFlouric acid combine with water to form a very caustic solution which is strong enough to etch glass. Solvents, especially degreasers, can alter the tear film layer of the eye by dissolving out the lipid component of tears. When the lipid (fat) portion of tears is reduced, the eyes will feel dry and more tearing results. These tears will also be acted upon by the solvent and the cycle will continue. Immediate treatment of such cases is removal from the causative environment. The symptoms are treated with artificial tear agents which act to stabilize the tear layer allowing the eye to come back to normal. The accompanying blood vessel reaction is treated with an anti- inflammatory agent which also acts to reduce the cellular response which resembles an "allergic" reaction. Generally relief is immediate but the total response time depends upon the duration and amount of exposure. Continued exposure can lead to the usual signs and symptoms of chronic contact reactions with the appearence of scarring, pterygia formation, thickened lids and drying of the skin. Continued tearing leads to glare and to skin irritation. Atopic dermatitis is sometimes seen in severe cases and sensitization of the eyes to other chemicals can occur. The eye is not the only part of the body to be involved. The mucous membranes of the mouth and nose as well as the lining of the air passages and lungs are also reacting to this insult. Some of this material will find passage into the circulation as well and thereby affect distant, internal organs. The information on such dispersal is not great. In short, not much is known. To respect the unknown is prudent and a survival trait of great value. OSHA has very clear guidelines to the safety levels of such chemicals however, these reccomendations are general and do not take into consideration individual sensitivity. The wearing of contact lenses in such an environment and under such circumstances is not reccomended. Electronics fabrication facilities, especially those involved in manufacturing circuit boards use a variety of exotic solvents. This fact coupled with the fumes from fluxes and soldering makes such an area a real eye hazard. It is becoming readily apparent, that while the human animal is very adaptable and hard to destroy, there is a limit to the toxicity levels that can be tolerated. We continue to produce "aerosols" of increasing toxicity with no thought to their longterm effects. "Guidelines" from OSHA and others not-with-standing, the levels set as safe are far to high. My advice to the questioner is to demand transfer to a healthier portion of the plant. FREE CANDY, SNACKS, COINS, TOKENS ANBD OTHER FINE MATERIAL. We all know those snack machines, coin machines, soda machines that allow dollar bills to be excepted. Here is a quick and easy way get all of those items for free and sometimes also making money at the same time. All you need is a dollar bill and a long strip of clear tape (you will want it to be the width of the dollar). What you do is at the very end of the dollar bill is tape an end of the tape to it and then fold the tape in half (the long way). So it should sort of look like this, a long section of tape (around 6 to 8 inches long) folded so it is the smooth side and not the sticky side attached to the end of a dollar bill. Now, stick the dollar end of the bill into the dollar slot. The dollar will go in with part of the tape (there should be enough tape left for you to be holding on to). Now pull the tape out along with the dollar bill. The machine thinks that you paid a dollar so now make a selection. You should be able to get the candy or whatever along with the change. So, you end up with a candy and 50 cents in change for nothing! This works the best on Lance Snack machines but feel free to trhy it on others too. If you are a little confused on how this should look feel free to take a look at the picture that I made using .BMP format called candy.bmp. GOOD LUCK, -=] Hacking [=- --- ------- --- -=] Conferance calls [=- --- ---------- ----- --- *I recomend that you do this local* To make a conference call with as many people you want, just call the operator ("0") and say "Hello, I'd like to make a conference call." Then give the (first) Names (not pirate names, ether) and the phone #'s of the people you want to call And she'll do it.(hint: make sure that the people you are callin are expecting it. because its damn annoying to be talking to 3 people and having the third be busy for the whole time -=] Charge-a-call phones [=- --- ------------- ------ --- On a charge-a-call phone (there blue but dont have any coin slots) take a hex wrench (with a hole in the middle) and remove the screw in the middle for an extention! -=] Free calls [=- --- ---- ----- --- From a pay phone, (the kind that gives you a dial tone AFTER you put in the dime) and drop in your dime. Then dial the #, then put another dime in! It'll come back out when you finish your call. {What!?!?! Some one tell me if he's serious!} {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} Picking Combination Locks {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} Written by: The Byte Byter {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} The writer of this text file takes resp- {=--=} {=--=} onsibility for what this text file is used for.{=--=} {=--=} Hopefully it will only be used for illegal pur-{=--=} {=--=} poses cuz i can't think of a reason it can be {=--=} {=--=} used for legally. Well, on with the text file. {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...This text file should help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it will help you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it. To free this wedge, you must(must is a word used to much) you usually(that sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps when ya don't know the combination to begin with). First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will have one. If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something together... If she says use a rubberband or use a paperclip, tell her to Fuck Off and Die and then go to the store and rip off a box of 50 or so. Ok, enough stalling (yea, i was stalling). Once you have your hair pin (make sure its metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can pick various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file! But most are not. Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out, here's how ya use it. Page 67 You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open it. Don't say bullshit until you've tried it. because i have gotten lots of beer money from doin' this to fellow students' gym lockers. Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable up, use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure there aren't that many that could. And when i say pick, i don't mean lighting a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without using force, making a substitute key, etc... If any of you believe that this information is not sufficient for picking an American lock, or any other kind besides Master, leave me a message at /\/\etalland 1 (503) 538-0761. This concludes my text file on picking combination locks. My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks". See ya later. The Byte Byter ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ||| |||| ||||| ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ ][ BROUGHT TO YOU BY ][ ][ COMPUTER PIRATES OF UTAH ][ ][ COURTESY OF THE SAFEHOUSE ][ Ya it's in all CAPS. ][ (801)-264-8201 ][ I got sick of trans- ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ lating. [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] I did put it to 80 [+] [+] columns though, 'stead [+] L O C K P I C K I N G [+] of the lame 40 columns [+] [+] which takes up too much [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] paper when printed and [+] [+] read. [+] WRITTEN BY: DARC DEATHE [+] [+] [+] [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] THIS TUTORIAL WILL DEMONSTRATE HOW TO "PICK" A PIN TUMBLER LOCK. USE OF THIS MATERIAL IS FOR LOCKSMITHS ONLY, ANY USE OF THIS INFORMATION FOR ILLEGAL PURPOSES IS FORBIDDEN AND AGAINST THE LAW. (AS LONG AS WE ARE AT IT, DO YOU WANT TO BUY SOME LAND IN FLORIDA?) IN ORDER TO PICK A PIN TUMBLER LOCK, YOU WILL REQUIRE FOUR ITEMS: A LOCK, YOU, A PICK, AND A TENSION WRENCH. YOU CAN USSUALLY GET THESE AT A LOCKSMITH STORE, IF YOU CAN NOT FIND ONE NEAR YOU THERE WILL BE AN ADDRESS AT THE END OF THE ARTICLE THAT YOU CAN ORDER THEM FROM. HERE IS AN ILLUSTRATION OF A PICK AND A TENSION WRENCH: ________/ !________ PICK TENSION WRENCH MOST PEOPLE KNOW OF THE NEED FOR THE PICK, BUT HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE WRENCH IS FOR. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT AND WITHOUT IT IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO PICK A LOCK. Page 69 IN ORDER TO PICK A LOCK, WE MUST COUNT UPON THE IMPERFECTION OF THE LOCK. BEFORE WE LOOK AT HOW TO ACTUALLY PICK THE LOCK, WE WILL LOOK AT THE PARTS OF IT AND HOW THE IMPERFECTION PART FITS IN. HERE IS A DISSASSEMBLED LOCK: / / / / \ \ \ \ SPRINGS -> / / / / \ \ \ \ _ _ _ _ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! DRIVERS ->! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !_! !_! !_! !_! _ _ ! ! _ ! ! BOTTOM PINS ->! ! ! ! _ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ _____________________ ! : : : : : : : : ! HOUSING ->! : : : : : : : : ! ! : : : : : : : : ! !___: :_: :_: :_: :___! ! : : : : : : : : ! PLUG ->! : : : : : : : : ! !______________________! ! ! ! ! ! ! !_____________________! ___ / \ ! !__ _ _ ! \__ / \_/ \__ ! \/ \ \__/------------------- <- KEY WHEN YOU INSERT A KEY INTO A LOCK, THE BOTTEM PINS ARE PUSHED UP, AND IF IT IS THE PROPER KEY, THE TOPS OF THE BOTTOM PINS WILL MATCH WITH THE SPOT WHERE THE PLUG AND HOUSING MEET, THUS ALLOWING YOU TO TURN THE PLUG, AND OPEN THE DOOR, ETC.. WHEN YOU INSER THE KEY, THE BOTTOM PINS GO INTO THE VALLEYS OF THE KEY, THUS MEANING THAT THE KEY MUST HAVE THE RIGHT HEIGHT VALLEYS TO MAKE THE LOCK OPEN. PRETTY ELEMENTRY, RIGHT? WELL NOW WE CAN MOVE ON TO HOW TO PICK A LOCK. Page 70 IN ORDER TO PICK A LOCK WE (AS I SAID BEFORE) DEPEND ON THE INACCURACY OF THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS. THE FIRST THING TO DO IS TO INSERT THE TENSION WRENCH INTO THE LOCK AND APPLY A SLIGHT PRESSURE TO THE LEFT (OR RIGHT IF YOU WISH) SO THAT IF YOU COULD LOOK INSIDE THE LOCK AT WHERE THE PLUG AND THE HOUSING WOULD MEET, IT WOULD LOOK LIKE THIS: ! !*! ! HOUSING ! !*!<----Spring ! !*! ! __________! !*! !___________ __________ !*! ____________ ! !*!! PLUG ! !_!! ! _ ! ! !*!<-----Pin ! \_/! NOW A SLIGHT PRESURE IS ON THE PINS. BECAUSE THE PINS CAN NOT BE PRODUCED EXACTLY THE SAME, THERE IS ONE PIN WHICH IS THE WIDEST AND THERE FORE HAS MORE TENSION ON IT, AND ONE WHICH IS THE THINNEST AND HAS ALMOST NO PRESSURE ON IT. WE NOW USE THE PICK TO >GENTLY< PUSH EACH PIN UP (AND TRY TO FEEL IT WHEN YOU LET IT DOWN) UNTIL WE FIND WHICH IS THE TIGHTEST ON AND WHICH IS LOOSEST. GETTING THE FEEL FOR THIS IS THE HARDEST PART OF LOCK PICKING. NOW THAT YOU HAVE FOUND THE LOOSEST ONE, GENTLY PRESS IT UPWARD UNTIL YOU FEEL A SLIGHT REDUCTION IN TENSION ON THE TENSION WRENCH. THIS WILL HAPPEN WHEN THE TOP OF THE BOTTOM PIN BECOMES EVEN WITH THE JUNCTION OF THE PLUG AND THE HOUSING. DO NOT RELEASE ANY TENSION FROM THE WRENCH NOW! THE DRIVER WILL NOW BE TRAPPED IN THE HOUSING AS ILLUSTRATED HERE: (DON'T I DRAW PRETTY) ! !*! ! HOUSING ! !*! ! ! !*! ! ___________! !_! !___________ _______________ ___________ ! !*! ! PLUG ! !*! ! ! \_/ ! ! ! NOW YOU CONTINUE THIS PROCESS WITH EACH OF THE PINS UNTIL YOU WORK YOUR WAY UP TO THE ONE THAT IS WIDEST. WITH SOME PRACTICE YOU CAN GET FAIRLY FAST AT THIS. I SUGGEST PRACTICING ON A FOUR PIN TUMBLER LOCK THAT IS BOUGHT FROM A HARDWARE STORE, THE CHEAPER THE BETTER. Page 71 I WOULD LIKE TO DISCUSS A PATICULAR CONFIGURATION OF THE PINS NOW THAT MAY PRESENT A PARTICULARLY HARD JOB TO PICK. THIS IS GRAPHICLY SHOWN HERE BY THE TWO MIDDLE PINS: !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !_! !*! !*! !*! _ !*! !_! !*! !*! !_! _ !*! !*! _ !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !_! !*! !*! !*! _ !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_______________ WHEN YOU TRY TO PUSH THE 2ND PIN FROM THE LEFT UP, YOU WILL UNAVOIDABLY BE PUSHING THE ONE IN FRONT OF IT UP BE- CAUSE OF IT'S LONG BOTTOM PIN. THE ONLY SOLUTION FOR THIS IS TO GET A SPECIAL PICK THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS: \ \ _______________ \_/ THE MAJOR PROBLEM WITH THIS IS THAT IT IS HARD TO INITIALLY DETECT. THE REASON THAT IT MAKES IT HARDER IF IT IS NOT IMMEDIETLY APPERANT IS THAT YOU UnAVOIDABLY PUSH THE 3RD PIN FROM THE LEFT UP INTO THE HOUSING, GETTING IT JAMMED: ! !*! ! HOUSING ! !_! ! ! _ ! ! !*! ! __________! !*! !________ ___________ !*! ________ !!*!! PLUG !!*!! !\_/! Page 72 I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO ADDRESS A TECHNIQUE CALLED RAKING. IT USES A TOOL LIKE THIS: \/\/\/\___________ BASICLY YOU "RAKE" IT BACK AND FORTH ACROSS THE PINS, HOPING THAT COMBINED WITH THE TENSION IT WILL GIVE YOU THE RIGHT COMBINATION. THIS WAY HAS BEEN KNOWN: FAST SOMETIMES, BUT IS NOT VERY RELIABLE, AND I WOULD SUGGEST LEARNING TO ACTUALLY "PICK" THE LOCK. EARLIER I PROMISED AN ADDRESS TO ORDER LOCKSMITHING MATERIALS FROM, SO HERE IT IS: Garrison Protective Electronics PO Box 128 <--Dropped to lower case to Kew Gardens, New York, 11415 stand out better. SOURCES: PERSONAL PRACTICE AND MANY EXCELLENT BOOKS FROM MENTOR PRESS, IF YOU WOULD LIKE THEIR CATALOG, SEND A Self- Addressed-Stamped-Envelope TO: The Intelligence Library Mentor Publications <--Ditto here. 135-53 Northern Blvd. Flushing, NY 11354 AND ASK FOR ANY INFORMATION AVAILABLE ON THE INTELLIGENCE LIBRARY. THIS CONCLUDES OUR EXTRAORDINAIRELY GRAPHIC ARTICLE ON LOCK PICKING. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, LEAVE E-MAIL FOR -- Darc Deathe -- ON MOST NATIONAL BBS'S. Edited by : Quasimoto Re-Edited by : Dark Star Re-Hashed by : DarkStorm ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[ ]] LOCK PICKING [[ ]] BY [[ ]] ^^^NIGHTWING^^^ [[ ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[ SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE UNLUCKY. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS, LOOK ELSEWHERE. THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE "LOCK-IN-KNOB" TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING THE OTHER FORMS OF ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT FIRST OF ALL, YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET HIM TO MAKE YOU A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU TO USE. IF YOU FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T GIVE UP HOPE. IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A GRINDER (YOU CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.) THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE SHOULD BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND THE LONG END OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.) IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS: #1 \\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (THIS IS THE HANDLE \\\ THAT WAS ALREADY \\\ (HERE.) \\\ \\\ \\\ NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END (#1) UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TEST YOUR TOOL OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE IN AND OUT SMOOTHLY. Page 74 NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME LOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER ? LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT. IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE INTERIOR OF A LOCK: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K # # # # # # | E # # # # | Y * * | H * * * * * * | O | L | E XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| #= UPPER TUMLER PIN *= LOWER TUMLER PIN X= CYLINDER WALL (THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING) THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW, IF YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDANCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ? THAT IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL KEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE BACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH..... THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE DOOR WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL PROBABLY TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT YOU WILL QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE. THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE. IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER WAYS, LET THE SYSOP KNOW. +==========================================+ + BE A LOCKPICK, GET INTO PADLOCKS + + "HOW TO CRACK A PADLOCK" + +==========================================+ I must attribute this message/file to reading I have done from another files about this, and some methods that I have made up on my own. This method has been only assured with "Master" padlocks. They are a very common padlock.. This might only work on those, but who knows.. First, pull the lock down, not so much as that it is impossible to turn, but just enough to be able to do the following: Turn the knob around clockwise (to the right) until you feel a small, small resistance which will last 2-3 numbers on the dial long. You might try doing this a few times to find the exact number that it does this on, and not to be mistaken with another. Now, add 5 to the number you have gotten. Guess what? You have the first number in the combonation! There are a few mehods to get the next number. I will tell you both, one method, is very quick, but not always 100% reliable. The other is very difficult. QUICK METHOD: This method will get the last two numbers in the combination in one step. --First, turn right and stop on the first number you got. Then, turn left and stop on the first number again. Continue turning to the left to the next marked number. This means that the dial goes by five, and if your first number is 18, go to the 20.. Then turn to the dial to the right again, while pulling down on the lock (as hard as you pull to unlock it if you have the right combo), and keep turning to the right until you get to the 2nd number you've tried. If it doesn't unlock, go on to the next marked number on the dial. (For instance, you're first number is 18, you tried 20 past right, it doesn't work, then try 25.) Keep doing this until eventually you unlock it, or it doesn't work. The most times that you would have to do this is about 8. HARD, BUT NEVER FAILS METHOD: As in above, turn right to your first number, and then turn left until you get your first number again. Begin pulling down on the lock again, and trying to feel for a little resistance. If it is very stiff, you probably have the second number. If it is weak, then continue turning. You should try 2 or 3 times to make sure you get the same results. After you think you've got the second number, turn back to the right, while pulling down on the lock between tries of oh, say every 3 numbers, and eventually, CLICK, it will open. //=DISCLAIMER: I am not held responsible for the use of this information. This is for, let's say, basic knowledge... Let's say, if you ever forget your combonation, or it is very important you get into another lock. This file/message has been brought to you by MASTER MICRO! How to Hotwire a Car By: The Marauder The easiest way is to just get under the dashboard and start crossing wires. Of course this could short out the entire electrical system so there is a better way. When you get in the car, look under the dash. If it's enclosed then don't bother. Most new cars are like this unfortunately. However you could cut through the dash. If you do cut just do it near the ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition, look for two red wires. In older cars this was the standard color code. If they aren't there you'll just have to try whatever else you can find. Pull out the two wires and cross them. The car should start. Editors Note: This file is slightly dated there are other ways this is the only one i know. Find a car in a secluded place (ie not in a place someone will come running by every 3 min.) and bring something like a power-Drill and a heavy duty saw (for the dashboard). also a wire stripper (or cutter) to use on the wires. Also unless you don't care about totally phucking over the cars electrical system don't cross too many wires or it will mess up the system. ok have Phun! -dr Demented! Conclusion ~~~~~~~~~~ That's it for this installment of Dr Demented's Handbook. I hope you found some good stuff in here. Also this may or may not be in .ZIP format if all you have is DDHB1A.TXT then stop reading now. Otherwise if you have DDHB2.ZIP then You should have the Files: FLDL.EXE FLDL.DOC FAKE.EXE FAKE.DOC OMNIBOX.EXE *.IDX FLDL is a Florida Drivers liscenece number generator which allows you to create a drivers liscence number from information you enter. (only valid in Florida) It's good for Fake Id's. Speaking of Fake Id's FAKE.EXE lets you create Fake Names and Valid addresses. you can even select a sex for your person for a male person type: Fake M 1 | | | Program name----- | -------- #of identies sex(M or F) (how many do you want) This is good for calling bbses (pirate or H/p/A) if you don't want the Phedz to get your name/address (in case the board is busted). Omni-Box is great for getting Red/Blue/Green/white/Tasi Tones. This is great but DONT use the BLUE BOX you will get busted! Ok with that said